Tuesday, September 25, 2007

"Jambo!"


I sit now in a white plastered room in the village of Bujugali. An empty doorframe leads into a smaller closet space; this casket-sized structure serves as Soft Power Health Clinic’s Pharmacy and Dispensary. Two adjacent blood colored file cabinets sit bulging awkwardly with precariously stacked medications in some sections and one lone pill bottle in others; aging masking tape reads ‘syrups’, ‘analgesics’, ‘P2 Agonists’ in order to denote the spaces where the drugs ought to go. I reside in one of three makeshift consultation room; the largest room in the building serves as the laboratory where John Bosco “the boss” and a large gentle man called Livingston sit all day ceaselessly handling blood samples. They look for typhoid, yellow fever, syphilis, and our number seller here in Uganda: Malaria.

It overwhelms me to speak of work right now; I have a project design budding in its early stages. Just germinated. A seedling I’m so eager to watch sprout, I run the risk of leaving it pale and withered as my over attentive torso blocks it’s sun. In any case, I’ll report back soon.
I moved into my host family home last Friday. My room is two meters into the front door, 7 paces to the right, past the living room and right on till morning. Cool worn cement floors and walls adorn the whole structure. The outside has a brick façade, but I know the truth…the village is warm.
I live in an agrarian jungle; a banana plantation right outside our back door, coffee plant volunteers seeding everywhere, each home equipped with its own durable sweet potato field and as I look to the west to watch the sun set from the main road I look past an ocean of sugar cane.


beautiful beautiful kawa...coffee bean
My mother, Rose, is dark and strong, with speckled honeycomb eyes and hands the size and texture of a baseball mit. My older sister, Silvia, is small and waif-like, and yet incredible durable and grounded; she gets stuck in quick sand Christianity too often for me, but her intentions are good. And the last of our humble abode is Edith, she is 10 and has boyish facial features, from what I can tell she has 1 dress, 1 skirt and 1 shirt…all beyond repair. Her status in the family seems to be dangerously close to house servant and she is so soft spoken I’ve all but given up trying to hear her quiet obeys; I found out just this morning that her constant hacking cough is because she has malaria…there is a sever lack of communication in my house.

The 25 or so children that reside on my street alone are priceless. The day I moved in, I had an audience of about 10, just peering curiously into my window for hours…they didn’t want to chat or beg, they just wanted to see my things…things are a rare commodity out here.


My mom had snuck a baseball into my suitcase and that provided them with hours of entertainment…a baseball. Oh, and my poor bear Oliver (many of you know him, some even look on him with detest, but alas…) he spent the day getting thrust high into the air only to plummet to the dust wherein groups of 4 or 5 would pounce upon him and pull violently at his ears and paws until one victor arose with him as a captive. I’m particularly taken with an 8 year old called ‘Jamali’, his English is good and he is as curious about me as I am about him. His family is Muslim and as it is Ramadan, him and his 5 siblings haven’t yet been blessed with gift of the foul chocolate covered protein bars I’ve been distributing desperately to distract and quell the band of ragamuffins. I met Jamali outside my house early this morning and asked if he wanted a walk to school, he said no, he didn’t have school… “Why?”… “No money”. So much for Musevini’s Universal Primary Education Program.


I’m still learning, still absorbing…nowhere near a place called familiar or normal. But this place and these people are good. They are pearls, silk, cinnamon and silver.

Thursday, September 20, 2007

calm before the crazy...

Go to people, live with them, love them, learn from them.
Start with what they know, build on what they have, and work with the leaders so when the work is done, people can say- We did this ourselves.
Lao Tzu 700 BC


Bujugali Falls...my new home!

Been five days now. Hard to believe, hard not to believe. This is ‘orientation week’; myself and 7 other Americans (6 from New England, 1 from Portland) are guided like lame livestock through the ins and outs of our current and upcoming Ugandan experiences by our Program Coordinators, Jen (4 redbulls a day, rides a bike around the city at night w/o a light, has a deathwish?,Vancouver) and Berna (goofy, just wants a beer, gasps like she’s run over a toddler every time her phone rings, NE Uganda) and Margaret (regrets this isn’t a Christian organization, drives a low rider white pickup the size of a mini cooper, wears dress suits EVERYDAY, Kampala) our Program Director.

Over the course of the week we’ve been tooling around Jinja and have had and will be having various sessions on:
• Expectations (you’re not gonna change the world)
• Safety & Security (don’t be stupid or you’ll get robbed)
• Culture Shock (you’re rich and white…ummm…better get over it or we can try and get you knock off Zoloft from a local clinic)
• Local Community Orientation (get used to being lost, ripped off and laughed at)
• Health (like diarrhea? Vomiting? Snails that enter your bloodstream through your feet?…well, it don’t matter cuz you’ll have an intimate relationship with all of them in a few weeks!)
• Living with a host family (Everything they do will be weird and everything you do will offend them…but hey…we’re bridging cross-cultural gaps!)
And coming soon to a small sweaty cement room near you:
• Conducting a Needs Assessment (you don’t know shit, go find some out)
• Working with a Host Organization (8am means 11am and when it rains no one will show up to work…it rains daily)


My host organization!!!! Soft Power Health.

Friday we move in with our host families. Start work Monday morning. We’ve been told the first week is supposed to be strictly an observation week, but considering I’ll be in a four room clinic I think people will notice the mzungu in the room biting her nails, not doing jack. By the end of week two we have to have developed our workplan, budget, objectives and agenda for the next twelve weeks…I’m the only one in the group who fundraised before coming so everyone else’s budgets are restricted to $200, which is something, but probably won’t go too far, I’m hoping I’ll have the ability to aim a bit higher with an inflated budget. There’s just so much to do, so much that can’t be done and so many components that must be taken into consideration before I can do anything at all. Tell me how, after 10 days in a community, I’m going to be able to determine what they truly need, tackle how to accomplish that and still make the locals feel important, involved and empowered. But perhaps, 12 weeks from now, there will be small circle of Busoga and one pasty white girl in front of the Soft Power Health Clinic, beaming over the same thought… ‘We did this ourselves’.
I’m into that.


(me being into it)


a boat and a bike in bujugali for eric...everything he could ever need.

Tuesday, September 18, 2007

Doin Jinja Up Right, Days I and II

There are funny sorts of birds here. Funny sorts of plants too. Lots of phenotypic similarities, but then quirky differences that your brain can’t process properly so you’re left with a bottom-up understanding of the thing itself. The bogandelias (sp?) grow as muffin-shrubs, ganja is free growing all over the place, the chickens and roosters don’t have feathers on their heads, there are these pterodactyl ‘Maribu Storks’ that stand at about a 10 year old’s height with their long backwards legs and a huge pink testicle sac dangling from their gaping beaks and then the turkeys: a vomit inducing cross between peacocks and those penis men from Star Wars (JEST knows what I’m talkin bout).
But the children, oh man, these children are beautiful. The Ugandan skin is dark, real unsweetened baking chocolate dark; the Bugandan people (mostly Bantu I think) don’t have those wide, cheekbone heavy faces…more compact, succinct, focused and proud. The children are much smaller than kids in America, little bodies and little hands and these big weepy eyes…how I’m going to avoid going broke giving them all hundreds of shillings I don’t know. There isn’t a lot of that whole ‘electricity thang’ around here either, so the prospect of being indoors isn’t too enticing for those under 12 or so. The smaller boys and girls dance around in their front yards or in the streets making spazzy embarrassed movements, throwing whatever’s in their hands into the sky, laugh-screaming, “Muzungu, Muzungo!!” as this band of 8 really American Americans (think Sarah H, Sarah I, Shannon H, Shannon C, Annie and Andrew) stroll through the red colored streets.

Today we entered the market for the first time. I was asked yesterday by a very educated, very jaded Ugandan woman if this was my first time in a ‘developing country’…it was a caddy cold kind of comment, one I wanted to shrug off with a “yeah…so.” But this afternoon I realized it isn’t quite as easy of an in as I’d thought. The avenues between the vendors in the market are about a meter wide, just long enough for two small toddlers to clasp their begging fingers from opposite sides. The vendors shoulder up next to each other hiking prices for the Wellingtons and the pineapples, the plantains and the underpants…it isn’t aggressive like Mexican markets, but it’s a different kind of heavy…just so many things I suppose. I’m not sure yet.

We continue to tip toe into Luganda; it’s the predominant dialect spoken in central Africa, in the Buganda kingdom. My organization is in Busoka Kingdom where they speak Lusoka, I’m told they’re similar. It’s not a very sticky language, as in my brain doesn’t seem to want to let it stick. But im not scared to practice in public and the reception is namely positive, so alas, I’ll persevere.

According to our ‘Culture Shock’ session with the FSD coordinators I’m experiencing the Honeymoon stage. As in the euphoric high stage that peaks right before we inevitable plunge into the depths of the inferior/angry/depressed/inadequate/misunderstood/dark phase. As was explained by our PC Jen, ‘you’ll all experience it, just uh, just make a list of all the things you hate about home. That oughta get you movin back up the ladder !’ I wouldn’t say I’m homesick, I just wish home could experience this too; I guess I feel a bit detached…but I am half a continent and an ocean away and its 1000 shillings/minute to call home, so that seems reasonable.
But here's a goat for my mom.

Monday, September 10, 2007

greenman 2007

BURNING MAN 2007 aug 27- sept 3

a good one, first and foremost. As fellow burners/dreamers/cosmic moon people can imagine, its heinously difficult to summarize or even bound these feelings and thoughts and sights and tastes into the whitebred confines of the english dictionary.
for me it was a lot of pinks, rose colored auras, touching eric's kitty sweater made out of woven milk and spider's silk, the luke warm water temperature of center camp, the graham cracker dust I stopped giving a damn about, mouths, eyes, hair, linens, fabrics, sucking candies, our rickety ole' love boat that had carried lovers through trecherous times for centuries, the scrap metal steel worshipers, praying for stephanie, melting into eric's lap in tears or menaical laughter (whichever came first), cold cold apple juice and my boots...OHHHHHHHHH my boots.

these aren't my photographs, they belong to Rob Roy, who we were fortunate enough to crash into a few times out on the playa.
thank you rob roy.



this place was very special to me. a tree house. the love seat window proved to be quite a sanctuary for the goofairy.



you just, you just can't imagine how cool this is. think flip book reality mind fuck extravaganza. simply wild.



the burn. I watched curled beside a lover, that was swell. we both melted a bit I think. the explosion made our bones rattle.
I'm still recovering...singed eyebrows and such.


boys like things like this. unbelievable, these artists, they just must be crazy... I mean...how? what? geez.


E-ROD and I stood right below this. yup, its true.

sending such firm warm embraces to the 'scabies awareness camp'. what an amazing ride eh?
I miss you all so much, please come back here and check on me in the next few months.
you're the reason I'll still be psyched up to move back to davis after a year of exploring. such great hearts.
next year... less grape seed extract and more juice.

loveshan

we like to think home is where the heart is...

but right about now my heart is sleeping soundly in an extra-long twin bed in davis...
I'm going to have to make exceptions for that friendly phrase... home is what you make it to be?

what do you make of this...
I'm thinking right near that line between can't-breathe-excitement and fucking-terrifying oughta do.

got this email a few days back:

Host Family Information
For: Shannon Harney
Dates and Program: Sept 15, (Uganda)
Location: Jinja

Dear Shannon,

I am pleased to inform you that you have been placed with the Mpangi family in Bujagali, Jinja for your family home stay. Below you will find important information about your host family.

Host Family: Mpango
Contact Information:
Main Contact: Silaji Mpango

Host Family Members:

Mother, Rose

Daughter: Edith, 9 yrs

Daughter: Sylvia, 22 yrs

Son: Silaji Mpango, 24 yrs (works at Soft Power Education and will walk with you to work in the morning)

Accommodations:

Your family is located in Bujagali, about a 10 minutes walk from Soft Power Health and only 10 minutes from Bujagali Falls, one of Jinja’s main tourist sites.

Your house is quite rural, located in a very scenic village. It is a small, modest house with only 2 bedrooms and a small sitting room. There is no electricity and water is from a borehole (though your family knows that you must be supplied with bottled water). Your kitchen, latrines and bathing facilities are all located outside. There is a small front yard and a small backyard. There are several children around the village and many chickens and goats.

As you will be walking to work everyday, we recommend that you bring (or buy here) a pair of boots or shoes that you do not mind getting muddy. There are no paved roads and the red clay earth will stain.